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Over the years [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], adverts for the perfume have involved the great beauties of the age, notably Jean Shrimpton and Catherine Deneuve (though interestly, her scent of choice is reputed to be L'Heure Bleu).
Floral fragrances are a classic in perfumery, but Ernest Beaux took them in a radical new direction with No.5 by using aldehydes. It is debatable whether he was actually the first to do so - Guerlain claim their family's greatest nose, Jacques, used them earlier in L'Heure Bleu, released in 1912. Whatever the truth of the matter, No.5 is certainly the definitive aldehydic floral, and many perfumes created since share its classic 'aldehydic bouquet' of C10, C11 and C12.
More recently, short films have been involved in the campaigns - Nicole Kidman escaped the pressures of movie stardom by dancing with a penniless artist on the rooftops [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and French actress Audrey Tautou, the current face of No.5, keeps bumping into a handsome stranger on the Orient Express. Tautou played the great lady herself in Coco Avant Chanel (Coco Before Chanel) in 2009.Advertisments for Chanel No.5 - the No.5 Woman
Aldehydes in Chanel No.5 - Abstract Perfumery and the Influence of Modern Art
Legend has it that Beaux was inspired by the scents of the arctic on recent trip, and used very large amounts of aldehydes to recreate this olfactory image in his scent. Used in the top notes (along with neroli), they create an prism through which other notes are icily distorted. The May rose and Grassoise jasmine at the heart of the scent are somehow clearer, freshened and cooled. At the base, sandalwood and vetiver sensually ground the scent, along with vanilla.
According to perfumer and perfume expert Roja Dove, aldehydes from C12 down bring a sparkling aspect to a perfume, making other ingredients shimmer; those from C14 up bring a fruity aspect, most famously C14, the peach note in Guerlain's groundbreaking chypre Mitsouko.
Chanel No.5 is the world's most iconic perfume. Created by Ernest Beaux and launched in 1921, it was a groundbreaking scent that is still one of the bestselling today. The history of this perfume is inextricably linked with scientific developments.
The results are spectacular. Beaux combined floral ntoes [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but the result is no bunch of flowers - it is something quite new. The Chanel website summarises it succinctly, describing No.5 as, 'A bouquet of abstract flowers with an indefinite femininity.'
Aldehydes - Use in Perfumery
Aromatic aldehydes have a benzene of phenyl ring attached to the aldehyde group. Examples include vanillin (which smells of vanilla), cinnamaldehyde (smelling of cinnamon) and anisaldehyde (aniseed or liquorish).Fatty aldehydes have between eight and thirteen carbon atoms in their molecular formula, and are labelled C8-C13. Examples include C8 (octyl, smelling of oranges) and C9 (nonyl, which smells of roses).
Some types have been particularly important in perfumery:
Aldehydes are one of the most important scientific discoveries of the modern age. They are used in many areas of life, including preservation, plastics and scent. Very basically, they are highly reactive organic compounds containing a carbonyl group (when a carbon atom is double bound to an oxygen atom) with at least one hydrogen atom attached to the central carbon atom.
Read on
Vintage Perfume - Jicky by Guerlain
Vintage Perfume - Chanel's Cuir de Russie
Vintage Perfumes - Fracas by Robert Piguet
It perfectly reflects Chanel's modern interpretation of womanhood, and must surely have been influenced by the art of the era: Picasso was continuing to wow the world with his cubism, and Kandinsky's work was becoming increasingly abstract.
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