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Each male tribal member within the Confederacy is easy to spot by the way they have their gustoweh constructed. The gustoweh is formed with the wood frame and feathers, but each tribe has a different number of upright feathers. The Mohawk will have three individual sockets, therefore, three distinct upright feathers. The Oneida’s gustoweh has three sockets, but two are for upright feathers, and the third at the back of the frame is laying down, so the large feather will be aimed at a downward slant, also called a side feather. The gustoweh of the Onondaga has two sockets, one is upright, the other is a side feather. The Cayuga gustoweh has an angled socket, so the feather is not upright or laying down, but at a forty-five degree angle, off to the side. The Seneca gustoweh has one upright, and finally the Tuscarora has a smooth frame for just the wing and body feathers. It doesn’t not have a socket for an upright feather.
The Haudenosaunee (People of the Longhouse) also known as the Iroquois people, originally lived in New York and are known for many historical changes. Originally, at the start of the Confederacy, which is speculated to many different dates from the fifteenth century to the seventeenth century, there were only five nations (Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Cayuga, and Seneca). By the early eighteenth century, the Tuscarora joined the Confederacy to make it six nations. Materially, the Haudenosaunee were typical with other tribes, insomuch that they had several different types of headgear that were worn by both men and women. What makes them stand apart from other nations is their feathered hats that the men wear. This hat is known in language as gustoweh, kastoweh or traditional feathered cap.
Feather Placement Depends on the Tribal Affiliation
The Makings of a Gustoweh
The gustoweh, or ‘real hat’, is one type of feathered hat that is worn by the men of the Haudenosaunee Confederacy. This hat is the most identifiable as being purely Haudenosaunee. The first thing that is needed to build a gustoweh is a type of wood termed ‘basket-split‘. Basket-split is mainly used for the making of baskets, but because of it’s flexibility the foundation of the hat will hold up well. This wood is usually from the ash tree. After the open dome is formed,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], one or several sockets are put into place to hold the upright feathers. The dome can then be covered with velvet, a variety of fabrics,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], tanned animal skin, or left open. The socket(s) is (are) then ready to receive the upright feather(s). The upright feathers are usually eagle, and are able to spin around in the sockets. If needed, the upright feathers are able to be removed for storage or during times of hard labor. Around the sockets, wing and body feathers of birds are attached. The body and wing feathers are split, and can be wild turkey, domesticated turkey, hawk or eagle. If the wearer is an important tribal figure or Tadodaho, deer antlers will also be attached to the gustoweh.
Sources:George-Kanentiio, Doug. (2000). Iroquois Culture & Commentary. Santa Fe, New Mexico: Clear Light Publishers.Lyford, Carrie A. (1982). Iroquois Crafts. Stevens Point, Wisconsin: R. Schneider, Publishers.
The gustoweh is a fitted hat that men construct and wear. Since the Haudenosaunee are matrilineal, any Haudenosaunee man wishing to wear a gustoweh should wear one according to his mother’s tribe. That is, if his mother is Haudenosaunee,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he wears his hat in that style. With the coming of the Europeans, the original types of the gustoweh went from covered with leather and decorated with wampum beads, to the newer style. This newer style has European cloth coverings, glass beads, and the use of silver/metal pins and at other times a silver/metal crown-like band around the base. Whatever the choice may be, the gustoweh is a labor intensive headpiece that any Haudenosaunee man would proudly wear if given the chance.
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