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Ten Top Tips on Saddle Fitting
1. Wither Clearance -The gullet of a saddle must remove the withers but not be so narrow as to pinch the horses back.
The ideal clearance needs to be 2-3 fingers between the saddle pommel (gullet) and horses withers. Anything less is dangerous and if no clearance the saddle must not be used.
2.To check you can look down the gullet and see light at the additional end, location the saddle on the horse, girthed up, yet with not numnahs or pads and then look to see if you have this clearance.
3. The Gullet Width - The gullet width (when seen from below the saddle), should be about 3 inches in width always the direction down the pommel to the cantle.
4. Saddle Balance - The saddle needs to sit straight, i.e. not submerging down at the front or back. To check this, once you have put the saddle on the horse, look and see if where the rider sits the saddle is sitting horizontally.
The saddle balance needs to be checked afresh by a person on the ground with the rider on the horse and the horse standing on class ground.
5. Saddle Seat Position - The seat of the saddle have to be positioned so namely the rider is placed over the horse's center of balance.
The position of the horse's center of balance depends on a composition of speed and collection of the horse. If the horse is standing or equitable walking the center of balance is fair after the heart girth and below the withers.
If the nag namely trotting or cantering, the center of balance moves along & whether galloping alternatively jumping the center of balance moves even more forward. If the nag is extremely collected the center of balance will be further back regardless of gait, than if the horse is in one extended skeleton.
6. The Length of Saddle - A saddle should not work further the 18th thoracic vertebra, which attaches to the horses final rib, beyond this is the lumbar spine, which is the weakest portion of the horses back. If you feel the ribs on your horse and work your hand backwards, until you can feel their last rib, then escape your fingers up this rib till you reach the spine - that is the point where the saddle must not work beyond.
7. The Panels -These need to be smooth and make even adjoin along the horses spine so distributing the heaviness of the rider evenly. An irregular fit mushrooms oppression points and soreness.
With used saddles when you are saddle fitting you need to check that the panels are still in nice condition and don't need re-flocking etc.
8. Movement of Saddle - When riding, the saddle ought no move backwards or along or rock up and down. To help watch if this is happening when saddle fitting, it helps if you have somebody standing aboard the floor, watching apt discern if the saddle moves meantime you hike, trot and canter elapse them.
9. Tree Size - The tree size, which dictates the length of the harness and elevation of the gullet is one of the most momentous elements when fitting saddles.
A tree that is too restricted, is more of a problem than one also broad, as it will shove the points of the saddle tree into the horses back and eventually cause brawn wastage/atrophy,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which long term will outcome in a hollowing in the horses back both side of the spine around the shoulder area.
It can be tested lightly by seeing at the sweat pattern on the horses back later work. The perspiration pattern should have even sweating by the panels, besides as the points of the tree points, which will reason round dry specks in the space of sweat.
10. Saddle Placement - When saddle fitting a saddle should be placed two to 4 fingers behind the end of the horse’s shoulder blade.
About The Author
Sarah Bell is passionate about merry healthy horses that are kept and looked after, with their health and well creature as a cardinal p